Build a modern farmhouse DIY end table with these free plans using just 2x4s and a pine round from Home Depot.
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I’m not exactly sure why, but I went on a crazy end table kick the last couple weeks. We’ve been considering new end tables for our living room but couldn’t decide on a style, so I just went ahead and built a few! Here’s the first set of plans – a modern farmhouse DIY end table.
The best part? All you need is 2x4s and a 15″ round top (or you can make your own tabletop).
Enjoy the plans!
TOOLS & SUPPLIES
- Miter Saw
- Table Saw (optional)
- Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
- 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 3/4″ Corner Braces (optional)
- Tape Measure
- Wood Glue
- White Wash Stain
- Early American Stain
- Water Based Polyurethane in Glossy
- Stain Pads
- Polyurethane Brush
- Speed Square
- Safety Glasses
- Ear Protection
- 2 | 2 x 4 @ 8′ (you’ll end up with extra)
- 1 | 15″ Edge Glued Pine Round (or you can make your own tabletop)
- 4 | 2 x 4 @ 23″ with a 5 degree parallel miter on each end (legs)
- 2 | 2 x 4 @ 9 3/4″ with a 5 degree perpendicular miter on each end (bottom frame)
- 2 | 2 x 4 @ 6″ with a 5 degree perpendicular miter on each end (top frame)
This is optional, but I ripped the rounded edges off my 2x4s to make the table look a little more square. A standard 2×4 is 3 1/2″ wide. To get rid of the round edges, rip 1/4″ off each long side. That leaves you with 2x4s that are 3″ wide. I wrote the following plans for 3″ wide 2x4s, but all you have to adjust is the width of the half laps if you keep the rounded edges (explained below). Everything else can stay the same.
DIY End Table Leg Cuts:
DIY end Table bottom frame cuts:
**In case you missed it, I shared a tutorial to cut half laps with a miter saw over on my Instagram page – make sure to head over there for more tips and tricks like this!
If you do not feel comfortable cutting half laps, you can cut each board into two separate pieces and use pocket holes to put them together. I cut half laps since the boards are so short and it gets difficult to drill all the pocket holes.
DIY End Table top frame cuts:
Repeat the same thing to cut half laps in the top frame 2x4s.
If you do NOT rip the rounded edges off the 2x4s, cut the half laps 3 1/2″ wide so they’ll fit together properly.
Build two frames as shown. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach the top and bottom 2x4s to the legs.
Drill two pocket holes on each end of the 2×4 frames. Place the pocket holes on the top of the top 2×4 to best hide them.
Drill the pocket holes on the bottom of the bottom 2×4 to best hide them.
Repeat the same process to build the second frame. The half laps face the opposite direction on the second frame:
Because that top 2×4 is so short, drill the pocket holes into the side of the half lap. Set the pocket hole jig up as usual and it will still direct the drill correctly. It will look like this on both sides:
You may be wondering why I didn’t just drill the pocket holes along the bottom and avoid the half lap – the drill won’t fit to attach the 2×4 to the legs since the top is only 6″ wide. However, if you have a right angle drill attachment, you could totally get away with it!
Once you’ve assembled both frames, apply wood glue to the half laps and sandwich them together.
There you have your table base!
I used an edge glued pine round from Home Depot for the tabletop. The pre-made edge glued pine rounds are quick and easy, but you could also make your own – totally up to you!
To avoid working around so many corners, sand and stain the frame and tabletop before attaching the top. I stained this table with my new favorite stain combination – prestain, white wash pickling, then early american – and sealed it with glossy water based polyurethane.
Attach the top to the base however you prefer. I usually use 3/4″ corner braces or figure 8 fasteners but kept things simple this time and went with 2″ screws through the bottom of the frame into the bottom of the tabletop.
Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.