Part #3 of the new bedroom furniture set – a DIY Twin Bed! With baby girl arriving in April, we decided to move Weston to a real bed so we don’t have to deal with two cribs. I went back and forth on whether to build a toddler bed or go for the twin. But, in the end, I figured the twin will last much much longer. So I thought I’d at least give it a try. It’s been a bit of a slow-go, but he’s starting to get used to it. Plus, he’s pretty proud of his new big boy bed!
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You can easily change these plans to fit any size bed. Just google the dimensions for your mattress (or measure) and adjust as necessary. Also, I designed this frame to fit a twin bed and box spring, which sits down inside the frame. If you don’t have a box spring, simply adjust the side rails to hold the mattress where you want it and add extra supports (see Steps 3 & 4).
Enjoy the free plans!
Tools & Supplies:
- Kreg Pocket Hole Jig (that’s the one I use – there are simpler ones as well)
- Bed Rail Brackets
- Miter Saw
- Orbital Sander
- 2 1/2″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Tape Measure
- Safety Glasses
- Ear Protection
- 3 | 1 x 10 @ 8′
- 2 | 2 x 2 @ 8′
- 3 | 2 x 4 @ 8′
- 3 | 1 x 4 @ 8′
- 2 | 1 x 10 @ 75″ (rails)
- 1 | 1 x 10 @ 35″ (foot-board)
- 2 | 2 x 2 @ 75″ (rail supports)
- 2 | 2 x 4 @ 33″ (headboard legs)
- 2 | 2 x 4 @ 20″ (foot-board legs)
- 3 | 2 x 4 @ 35″ (headboard & foot-board)
- 3 | 1 x 4 @ 35″ (headboard)
- 3 | 1 x 4 @ 38″ (box spring supports)
Build the foot-board as shown. Use 2 1/2″ pocket holes to attach the top 2 x 4 to the legs. Use 1 1/4″ pocket holes to attach the 1 x 10 to the legs. Position the 1 x 10 so it is flush with the back (mattress side) of the legs.
Build the headboard as shown. Position the top 2 x 4 flush with the tops of the legs and attach with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Place the bottom of the lower 2 x 4 three inches from the floor and attach with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Build the center section of the headboard before attaching it to the legs. I staggered pocket holes along the backs of the 1 x 4s and attached them together with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. Once it dried, I used 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws through the ends of the 1 x4s to attach the piece to the legs.
Attach the 2 x 2s to the rails with wood glue and screws. I used 2″ wood screws spaced every 6″ and drilled straight through the 2 x 2 into the rails.
If you do not have a box spring, this is where you can make changes to adjust where the mattress sits. Simply adjust the 2 x 2 to the desired height. Don’t forget to account for the thickness of the mattress supports that sit on top of the 2 x 2s (next step). Also, if you use the Bed Rail Brackets, make sure to cut the 2x2s about 2″ short to leave room for the brackets on the ends of the rails. They’re about 1″ thick, but double check the measurement with your specific brackets before making cuts.
Once you’ve attached the Bed Rail Brackets, put the bed together.
If you don’t want to use Bed Rail Brackets, you can always use pocket holes along the ends of the rails to attach the rails to the headboard and foot-board. I decided to use brackets for easy assembly and disassembly. It’s totally up to you, but I really like not having to screw and unscrew the rails every time I move the bed.
To attach these Bed Rail Brackets:
Position the male side flush with the end of the bed rail and attach with screws.
Position the female side of the bracket so the rails sit 38″ apart.
Place the slotted side out so you can see the screws once the bed is together.
Repeat for all four ends of the rails. Once all the brackets are in place, assemble the rails, headboard, and foot-board.
Place 1 x 4 box spring supports along the rails.
You can attach the 1 x 4s with screws or finish nails if you want, but I just laid them on top and popped the box spring into place.
If you do not have a box spring, add extra 1x4s (spaced about every 2″) along the rails and attach with finish nails or screws. The 1 x 4s will support the mattress in place of a box spring.
Put the box spring and mattress in place and you’re good to go!
The span between rails is pretty small for a twin, so it isn’t necessary to add middle support between rails. However, if you adjust the dimensions for a bigger mattress, I would recommend adding a middle support like you typically see on bed frames.
Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
I’d love to see it if you build from these plans! Tag me on Instagram @bitterrootdiy!
Thanks for stopping by!