DIY Dining Table – Inspired by Restoration Hardware

Woodworking plans to build a DIY dining table inspired by Restoration Hardware.

DIY Dining Table

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TOOLS & SUPPLIES

Lumber:

  • 4 | 2 x 10 @ 8′ (tabletop)
  • 2 | 2 x 4 @ 8′ (legs)
  • 1 | 2 x 4 @ 8′ (center x frame)
  • 2 | 2 x 4 @8′ (center x)
  • 1 | 2 x 4 @8′ (top runner)
  • 4 | 2 x 6 @ 8′ (top & bottom feet)
  • 2 | 2 x 6 @ 8′ (bottom runner)
  • 1 | 1 x 6 @ 6′ (bottom feet – you only need a little over 40″, but 6′ is usually the smallest they sell) OR you can use 2x6s.

I chose to make my own 4x4s for this dining table by gluing 2x4s together. To make your own 4x4s, cut the 2x4s according to the cut list below, then glue and clamp two 2x4s together to make a 4×4. Once the glue is completely dry, remove the clamps. You can cut the rounded edges off the 2x4s for a more square look, or leave them rounded. I cut the rounded edges off with a table saw, but it’s completely optional.

**If you prefer to buy the 4x4s, here is an alternate lumber list:

  • 4 | 2 x 10 @ 8′ (tabletop)
  • 1 | 4 x 4 @ 8′ (legs)
  • 1 | 4 x 4 @ 8′ (center x frame)
  • 1 | 4 x 4 @8′ (center x)
  • 1 | 2 x 4 @8′ (top runner)
  • 4 | 2 x 6 @ 8′ (top & bottom feet)
  • 2 | 2 x 6 @ 8′ (bottom runner)
  • 1 | 1 x 6 @ 6′ (bottom feet – you only need a little over 40″, but 6′ is usually the smallest they sell)

Cuts:

  • 4 | 2 x 10 @ 8′ (tabletop)
  • 8 | 2 x 4 @ 20 3/4″ (legs)
  • 4 | 2 x 4 @ 22 1/4″ (center x vertical frame)
  • 2 | 2 x 4 @ 27 3/16″ with both ends cut at 30 degree parallel miter (see step 7 for a diagram)
  • 4 | 2 x 4 @ 13 9/16″ with one end cut at 30 degree miter and the other cut at 20 degree miter (see step 7 for diagram)
  • 1 | 2 x 4 @ 63 1/2″ (top runner)
  • 4 | 2 x 6 @ 31″ (feet with straight ends)
  • 4 | 2 x 6 @ 30″ with the ends cut back 1 1/2″ at 45 degrees (see diagram below)
  • 2 | 2 x 6 @ 63 1/2″ (bottom runners)
  • 8 | 1 x 6 @ 6″ (bottom feet)

**Alternate cut list if you buy 4x4s:

  • 4 | 2 x 10 @ 8′ (tabletop)
  • 4 | 4 x 4 @ 20 3/4″ (legs)
  • 2 | 4 x 4 @ 22 1/4″ (center x vertical frame)
  • 1 | 4 x 4 @ 27 3/16″ with both ends cut at 30 degree parallel miter (see step 7 for a diagram)
  • 2 | 4 x 4 @ 13 9/16″ with one end cut at 30 degree miter and the other cut at 20 degree miter (see step 7 for diagram)
  • 1 | 2 x 4 @ 63 1/2″ (top runner)
  • 4 | 2 x 6 @ 31″ (feet with straight ends)
  • 4 | 2 x 6 @ 30″ with the ends cut back 1 1/2″ at 45 degrees (see diagram below)
  • 2 | 2 x 6 @ 63 1/2″ (bottom runners)
  • 8 | 1 x 6 @ 5 1/2″ (bottom feet)
DIY Dining Table

There are more details on how to cut the center criss cross boards below. I listed the cuts in the cut list, but I recommend waiting to cut them until the rest of the frame is assembled just in case there’s any discrepancy in measurements once it’s all put together.

I also recommend sanding the boards before assembly. There are a lot of corners once it’s all put together, which are pretty hard to reach with a sander. I sanded both before and after assembly.

Make sure to clean up any leaked wood glue before it dries because wood glue does not accept stain.

Enjoy the plans!

Step 1.

Glue a straight 2×6 board and a mitered 2×6 board together to make one table foot. Make sure to clamp them until the glue is completely dry.

DIY Dining Table step 1

Repeat for all four table feet.

When you’re done, you should have four sets of feet that look like the above diagram (two for the bottom of the legs and two for the top of the legs).

Feel free to rip the rounded edges off if you want to, but it’s completely optional!

Step 2.

Attach two 1x6s on either end of one of the feet you built in Step 1. Attach the 1x6s to the foot with wood glue and clamp in place until dry. Alternatively, you can drive a few finish nails through the bottom of the 1x6s into the 2×6 foot if you don’t want to wait for glue to dry.

Repeat for the second bottom foot.

You should end up with two feet that look like this:

DIY Dining Table step 3

And two feet that still look like this (no 1x6s):

DIY Dining Table step 1

**If you ripped the rounded edges off the 2×6 feet in Step 1, the 1x6s will be a little wider than the 2×6. I simply cut the extra width off the 1x6s with my miter saw so they match up perfectly with the 2x6s. If you don’t rip the rounded edges off the 2x6s, everything is the same width and you don’t have to worry about this at all.

Step 3.

Attach the 4×4 legs to the feet with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws as shown:

DIY Dining Table step 4

I used two pocket holes on the bottom and two pocket holes on the top of each leg to attach them to the feet. I turned the pocket holes toward the inside of the leg in order to best hide them (I also filled them with wood plugs, as stated below).

Build two sets of legs.

DIY Dining Table step 5

Step 4.

Join the legs together with the bottom 2×6 runner. Position the runner so it is flush with the top of the feet and attach with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

DIY Dining Table step 6

Step 5.

Add the top 2×4 runner to join the top of the legs together.

DIY Dining Table step 7

I used the center frame 4x4s as blocks to hold the 2×4 runner in place while I attached it. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach the 2×4 runner to the legs. Place them on the top of the 2×4 so the tabletop will hide them once it’s attached.

Step 6.

Adjust the center frame boards into place and attach them to the top and bottom runners with wood glue and 2″ self tapping screws.

DIY Dining Table step 8

You can use pocket holes here if you prefer, but it just leaves more holes to fill later. I recommend simply driving screws through the runners into the 4x4s. You’ll never see them once the final bottom 2×6 and tabletop are in place. Make sure to countersink the screws.

Step 7.

Double check the center vertical frame you just build in step 6 to make sure all the measurements are the same as listed.

If they are, cut the center criss cross boards as shown:

DIY Dining Table step 12
Full length X board
DIY Dining Table step 13
Short X boards

To make criss crosses, I usually just hold the boards against the frame and trace the cuts. However, since the bottom runner is a 2×6 it’s difficult to hold the boards flush against those vertical 4x4s (there’s a little ledge between them and the edge of the 2×6). So I ended up just cutting the criss cross to the measurements as listed.

I recommend cutting the boards a little long and then trimming them down to get the best fit.

Once you’re happy with how they fit, attach them to the table frame.

I used 2″ self tapping screws and wood glue to attach the boards to the top and bottom runners (same as the 4x4s in Step 6).

DIY Dining Table step 9

I used wood glue and drove 1 1/2″ finish nails diagonally into the full length X board at the center intersection. I used two finish nails in the front and two in the back on both of the shorter X boards. Between the finish nails and wood glue, it’s a strong joint.

You could also use pocket holes (more holes to fill) or cut half laps – completely up to you!

Step 8.

Last but not least, attach the bottom 2×6 runner and you have a table frame!

DIY Dining Table step 10

I used wood glue and 2″ self tapping screws and simply screwed it to the other 2×6 runner. You can use pocket holes to attach it to the feet if you so choose, but it’s plenty strong just attached to the other runner.

Step 9.

Build the tabletop. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket holes to attach the 2×10 boards to each other.

DIY Dining Table step 11

Stagger the pocket holes along the back of the boards for a strong, secure tabletop. For more information see How to Build a Tabletop.

Once I joined all the tabletop boards together, I trimmed both ends of the tabletop with a circular saw to make sure it was smooth and flush (about 1/8″ off each end). You can trim the boards with a miter saw before joining them together if you don’t have a circular saw, or just leave them rough if you prefer.

Step 10.

Sand everything a final time and finish as desired. As stated above, I sanded both before and after assembly. I stained the table with Varathane “Kona” and sealed it with Varathane oil-based polyurethane in “Gloss”.

Finally, attach the tabletop with corner braces. I used eight 1″ corner braces – four along the top 2×4 runner and two on each leg. The braces allow the table top and base to move independently as the wood swells and shrinks with temperature and humidity changes.

DIY Dining Table

Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

DIY Dining Table
Bitterroot DIY

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DIY Dining Table

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Katrena says

    Your table project is gorgeous! I am hoping to convince my husband to help me make this.
    I was wondering if you have a video or pictures of how you attached the table top to the base? We are not regular wood builders 😊

    • tylynn_sattler says

      Thank you – I’m so glad you want to build it! I’m working on learning how to do videos right now, but I didn’t get one of this particular project. I used eight small corner braces to attach the top though. I just set the tabletop on the frame, centered it, attached the corner braces to the frame, then attached them to the bottom of the tabletop. Does that help at all? I know it’s kinda confusing when you’re just getting started!

  2. Justin thornton says

    I just started building this table using your directions. I was wondering, when you attach the legs to the feet you said use wood glue and pocket holes. Do you also need to clamp it afterwards or will the screws be sufficient enough to help the glue settle?

    • tylynn_sattler says

      Hi Justin, I did not clamp the legs to the feet. I just screwed them down tight and they held well. Make sure the screws pull the wood tightly together and you should be good to go!

  3. Alfredo says

    Thank you so much for this, I already made the bedside table using your plans, and it was surprisingly easy for me (an amateur).
    This one looks like it’s going to take a little longer, but it’s doable.
    Saludos desde México.

  4. Aaron says

    For the corner braces, did you get black or just used the steel? Also, the screws that come with the braces are plenty? Lastly, are those braces sturdy enough to pick the table up by the table top?

    • tylynn_sattler says

      I just used the steel ones – you can’t see them unless you’re underneath the table. The screws are plenty to hold the tabletop in place. We moved it into place before attaching the top, so we didn’t lift it by the braces. I’m sure they’d be fine for just scooting it around the dining room, but otherwise I’d lift from the base. Or you could use 1 1/4″ screws instead and they’d be a little stronger.

    • tylynn_sattler says

      The dimensions are in the plan diagrams, but it’s 29 3/4″ tall. Standard dining table height.

  5. Tiff & Joe says

    We have used a few of your plans already. They have been great. We are going to start building this next. I was looking on your website for a matching bench but didn’t find one. Hoping to find some plans for a bench that we can match to this table. Your plans are wonderful!

    • tylynn_sattler says

      Thank you so much! I didn’t build a matching bench for this, but that’s a great idea. If you want a matching bench, you could use the same framing as for the table base, but just smaller to fit a bench. I’ll try to work that into my projects!

  6. Shoua says

    Hi. I’m from Australia and very much interested in making your table design. It’s truly appealing! My issue is that, we are on the metric system and not imperial. Wondering what’s the best way to get the measurements. Any suggestions would me much appreciated. Best regards, Shoua

    • tylynn_sattler says

      Thank you! I’m not sure the best way to do that, but you could just use the google converter to convert everything?

  7. Jeremy says

    I really like the design and your execution of this table. Its beautiful. A question though: why use doubled up 1x6s for the feet, rather than extra 2×6 material? Does your material list account for the double bottom runner? It only shows a single 2×6 for the bottom runner, but your plans instruct to attach a double bottom runner.

    Thanks for putting together great plans and instructions.

    • tylynn_sattler says

      Sorry about that – the bottom runner thing was my mistake. I just went and fixed the lumber list. You can use 2x6s for the feet – I used 1x6s since I had some extra in the shop, but 2x6s probably makes more sense.

    • tylynn_sattler says

      I don’t, but I’ve gotten quite a few requests for them. I’ll add them to the project list. Thanks for the request!

  8. Brooke says

    Do you have a link/file to make this printable? I find it much easier to work off of paper plans. It does not size anything right if I print from the webpage.

    • tylynn_sattler says

      I’m sorry but I don’t have printable plans right now. I’m working on upgrading software to be able to produce printable sets ASAP. Sorry for the inconvenience!

  9. Dan Brady says

    Thank you for the detailed plans. Pine being a soft wood, does the gloss oil-based poly prevent the indentation of pen or pencil marks through paper that may be written on?

    • tylynn_sattler says

      It helps a little since it hardens over the surface of the wood. However, it’s still softer than a hardwood would be.

  10. Sam says

    What would be the measurements and cuts if you wanted this to be an 8 seater table with three chairs on each side and one on each end? This looks like it would only fit a total of 6 chairs comfortably.

    Also, any advice on making a herringbone top rather than a plank top?

    • tylynn_sattler says

      I think I would direct you to a different set of plans to find the correct dimensions for a table of that size OR you can just google what the dimensions are for a 8 seat table and adjust to that. I would also suggest looking up a herringbone tutorial – unfortunately I haven’t done one, so I don’t have a tutorial for it. Hope that helps?

  11. Trista says

    Hi, the table is beautiful! My dad and I are hoping to build it for my house😀 I am curious about the wood warping/twisting etc…My friend’s husband built her a table and the wood has twisted and it’s an uneven surface now. Do you run into this problem? If so, any ideas to avoid it? Possibly better lumber from a builder’s source instead of Lowe’s or Home Depot type of stores? Thank you in advance!!

    • tylynn_sattler says

      If you buy lumber with a high moisture content, it can bend and warp when it dries out. Try not to buy lumber with too high a moisture content or let it dry out before you try to build with it.

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