Build your own DIY modern farmhouse bed with these plans.
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The lumber and cut lists are available for purchase. Your purchase also includes a downloadable PDF of the plans. If you prefer, the plans are available in the post below – you simply have to calculate the lumber and cut lists yourself.
** NOTE: I ripped all the 4x4s down to 3″ x 3″ to get rid of the rounded edges before beginning this build. If you prefer, you can leave the 4x4s at their nominal size which is 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″. You will have to adjust the dimensions slightly to account for the extra 1/2″. I will refer to the 4x4s as 3x3s for the rest of the plans.
Enjoy the plans!
Start by building the headboard frame as shown in the diagram. The diagrams are a view from the back. Use wood glue and 5″ lag bolts or lag screws to assemble the 3×3 legs and top of the headboard. Pre-drill holes for the lag bolts through the sides of the legs and into the top of the headboard. Use a 1/2 forstner bit (depending on the size of the bolt head) to countersink the lag bolts. You can plug these with dowels later. Center the 2×2 on the legs and use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach it to the 3×3 legs. Place pocket holes along the back of the headboard to best hide them.
Assemble the center of the headboard. Start by gluing the 1x10s together along their long edge, then use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach them to the 2x2s. Center the 1x10s on the 2x2s.
Attach the center of the headboard to the headboard frame. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket holes to attach it to the 2×2 at the top of the headboard.
Complete the headboard by attaching the bottom 3×3. Position the 3×3 so it is tight to the legs and 2x2s in the center portion of the headboard. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach it to the 2x2s first. Then use wood glue and 5″ lag bolts or lag screws through the sides of the legs to secure it to the legs (same as the top 3×3). Again, pre-drill the bolt holes and countersink them with a forstner bit.
This is a view from the back of the headboard. Make sure to face all pocket holes toward the back to best hide them.
Begin assembling the footboard as shown above. Position the top 3×3 flush with the top of the legs and use wood glue and two 5″ lag bolts or screws to attach it. Pre-drill the bolt holes and countersink them with a forstner bit.
Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach the 2×2 to the legs. Place pocket holes along the bottom to best hide them.
Assemble the center of the footboard. Start by gluing the 1x6s together along their long edge, then use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach them to the 2x2s. Center the 1x6s on the 2x2s.
Attach the center of the footboard to the footboard frame. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket holes to attach it to the 2×2 at the top of the footboard.
Complete the footboard by attaching the bottom 3×3. Position the 3×3 so it is tight to the legs and 2x2s in the center portion of the footboard. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to attach it to the 2x2s first. Then use wood glue and 5″ lag bolts or lag screws through the sides of the legs to secure it to the legs (same as the top 3×3). Pre-drill the bolt holes and countersink them with a forstner bit.
This is a view from the inside of the footboard. Make sure to face all pocket holes toward what will be the inside to best hide them.
Once you’ve finished headboard and footboard, fill all pocket holes and bolt holes with wood filler or dowels. I prefer dowels because they soak stain or paint up the same as the rest of the wood. Let all the wood glue dry and then sand everything smooth.
Attach the 2×2 rail boards to the bottom of the 2×10 rail boards with wood glue and 2 1/2″ screws. I spaced the screws about every foot, but feel free to put them closer together if you want.
Repeat for both rails.
Sand and finish the headboard, footboard, and rails before putting them together. I stained this bed with Minwax gel stain in chestnut and sealed it with water-based polyurethane in gloss.
It’s up to you how you want to attach the rails to the headboard and footboard. I used bed rail brackets for this bed, but you could use pocket hole screws if you prefer. I usually use brackets since it makes assembly and disassembly really simple whenever you have to move the bed. Whichever method you decide on – space the rails 5′ 1/2″ apart to fit a queen bed. There should be a 1/4″ gap between the rails and the outside of the legs.
There are quite a few different options to support the mattress and box spring. In the past, I’ve used lumber (1x4s or something similar). But I decided to go with a metal frame for this one. Sometimes the lumber is a lot to move around and deal with if you ever have to move the bed. You also have to make sure to add support legs in the middle for any bed larger than a twin. All in all, the metal frame is simpler – it folds up easily and has the support legs built in. However, it is more expensive than lumber. So it’s totally up to you what you decide to go with.
The stain was a whole big fiasco. I was originally planning to do a combination of white wash pickling and Early American, but I didn’t like how that turned out. So I ended up going back over everything with Minwax gel stain in Chestnut. The gel stain covered a lot of the first combo, so I’d say go with that if you want to get pretty close to this color, rather than doing three different coats like I did. I used JUST the chestnut gel stain on the nightstand drawers that you can see next to the bed – it’s not exact, but it’s pretty close (even more so in person).
If you want the EXACT color, here’s what I did: pre-stain, white wash pickling, wipe it off immediately and let it sit for about 15-20 minutes so it’s pretty dry, early american, wipe off immediately, and let it all dry again. Then go over everything again with the Minwax gel stain in Chestnut. Seal it with a polycrylic.
I wouldn’t recommend doing what I did since it takes FOREVER (it was a mistake haha) and the chestnut gel stain is pretty close on its own, but there you have it!
Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
Thanks for stopping by!