I’ve been working on getting my shop in order lately and finally built a couple workbenches. In case you missed it, last week I shared the plans for the new miter saw stand. My goal with the shop is to maximize space, but still be able to park the car in there when necessary. The miter saw stand is a permanent workbench at the back of the shop, but I also put together a mobile workbench. It sits against the side wall when not in use (so the car fits), but I can move it anywhere in the shop when I’m working on a project. I built it around the table saw so it works as an out-feed table when I use the saw, but then I can lower the blade and use the whole table top. Win-win!
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TOOLS & SUPPLIES:
- Four 3″ Locking Casters
- Miter Saw
- Circular Saw or Table Saw
- Tape Measure
- Speed Square
- Safety Glasses
- Ear Protection
- 2 ½” Screws
- 1 ¼” Screws
- 11 | 2 x 4 @ 8′
- 2 | 3/4″ Particle Board @ 4′ x 8′ (or plywood)
- 4 | 2 x 4 @ 69″ (long frame boards)
- 5 | 2 x 4 @ 30″ (short frame boards)
- 10 | 2 x 4 @ 31 1/2″ (legs)
- 2 | 2 x 4 @ 33″ (long shelf frame)
- 3 | 2 x 4 @ 15 1/4″ (short shelf frame)
- 4 | 2 x 4 @ 5″ (bottom of the legs as feet for the casters)
- 1 | 3/4″ particle board @ 36″ x 73″ (table top)
- 1 | 3/4″ particle board @ 33″ x 18 1/4″ (table saw shelf)
- 1 | 3/4″ particle board @ 33″ x 69″ (bottom shelf)
Enjoy the plans!
Assemble the bottom frame as shown below. Use 2 1/2″ self tapping screws through the frame to attach the 2x4s.
Pocket holes are a great option if you don’t want to see the screws from the front of the bench. However, since this is just a workbench, I simply screwed through the frame into the shorter 2x4s.
Attach the legs to the bottom frame with 2 1/2″ screws. The bottom of the frame should sit flush with the bottom of the legs.
I attached the legs to the frame first and then drove a few screws through the front and back legs into the narrow side of the side legs to hold the legs together.
Put the bottom shelf in place on the bottom frame and attach with 1 1/4″ screws. Countersink the screws so they won’t get in the way.
It’s very difficult to put the bottom shelf in later (ask me how I know …), so definitely put it in before attaching the top frame in Step 3.
Build the top frame as shown. Use 2 1/2″ screws to attach the long sides to the supports.
Attach the top frame to the legs with 2 1/2″ screws.
I assembled the frame upside down to get top frame flush with the tops of the legs. Simply flip the bench over, move the new top frame into place, make sure everything is sitting flat on the ground, and attach the legs to the frame. No need to worry about clamping or balancing the top frame in mid-air while you try to attach it!
**The bottom shelf should already be attached at this point (don’t mind that it isn’t shown in the diagram above).
Assemble the frame for the table saw shelf with 2 1/2″ screws.
Place the shelf at the appropriate height for your table saw (mine was 11″) and attach to the workbench frame with 2 1/2″ screws.
Use a jigsaw to cut the section for your table saw out of the table top. The dimensions shown work for my table saw. Adjust as necessary.
Put the table saw shelf and tabletop in place and attach to the frame with 1 1/4″ screws. Countersink the screws into the particle board so they won’t get in the way of your work.
Attach the 2×4 feet to the legs with 2 1/2″ screws. Fasten the locking casters to the feet with 1 1/4″ screws. I used washers on each screw since the screw heads were smaller than the holes in the caster wheels. You could also use washer head screws.
I added a simple clamp rack along one end once the bench was finished.
Simply attach a small scrap board to the inside of the legs.
And there you have it!
Just a heads up – I built this bench to fit my Ryobi table saw. Make sure to measure your table saw and adjust accordingly.
Also, with this Ryobi saw, there’s no room for dust collection from the bottom since the saw base is closed in. I simply remove the blade guard from the saw tabletop and vacuum the sawdust out when necessary. Alternately, you could cut a section of the shelf out to let the sawdust fall. Other brands of table saws have an open base so the sawdust would fall out just fine.
**UPDATE: I finally got around to cutting out part of the table saw shelf to allow the dust to fall out. I simply set the table saw in place, traced around the base so I knew where it sat, and cut out two sections around the center 2×4.
If you look closely at the above photo, you can see where I traced out the bottom of the saw. I marked where that 2×4 sits in the middle of the shelf and then just drew two rectangles on either side of it, inside the footprint of the saw. I drilled out all four corners so I could get the jigsaw blade in place and then just cut each one out. No really specific measurements here – just make sure you don’t cut out the center 2×4 or beyond the footprint of the saw.
Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible!
If you’d like more information, I’ve also saved a video tutorial for this workbench to my highlights on my Instagram.
Thanks for stopping by!