Rustic X Base DIY End Table

Build a rustic DIY end table with these free plans.

X Base DIY End Table

I can’t believe this is the last set of plans for 2018! I had a goal to finish up these end tables before all the Christmas festivities started – it was a push at the end over here, but they’re in the living room and in use!

This is actually a super quick build. It took me just a few hours (including sanding & staining) to finish a set of two.

Enjoy the free plans!
These plans are written for one table. Adjust as necessary.

Tools & Supplies

Lumber

  • 1 | 1 x 4 @ 6′
  • 2 | 2 x 2 @ 8′

Cuts

  • 4 | 1 x 4 @ 14″ (table top)
  • 4 | 2 x 2 @ 23 1/4″ (legs)
  • 1 | 2 x 2 @ 12 1/2″ (long x-base)
  • 2 | 2 x 2 @ 5 1/2″ (short x-base)
  • 4 | 2 x 2 @ 9 7/8″ with 45° perpendicular miter (long side) (top frame)


Step 1.

Position the long x-base 2 x 2 flush with the bottom of the first table leg and attach with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Place pocket hole screws on the bottom of the 2 x 2 to best hide them.

X Base DIY End Table


Step 2.

Attach the long x-base 2 x 2 to the opposite leg with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

X Base DIY End Table


Step 3.

Position one of the short x-base 2 x 2s flush with the base of the next table leg and attach with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Again, place pocket holes on the bottom of the 2 x 2 to best hide them.

X Base DIY End Table

Repeat for the last table leg.


Step 4.

Attach the table legs with short x-base 2 x 2s to the table legs with the long x-base 2 x 2. Attach the short x-bases in the center of the long x-base. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws along the bottom of the 2 x 2s.

X Base DIY End Table

For clarification, here is a photo of the bottom of the table:

DIY End Table


Step 5.

Attach the top frame pieces one-by-one as you work your way around the top of the legs. Use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. Place pocket holes along the top of the 2 x 2 frame pieces to best hide them beneath the tabletop. Use one pocket hole in the center of each mitered frame piece.

X Base DIY End Table

Since you cut 2 x 2s at a 45° miter, the exposed 45° side will be slightly wider than the legs. Position the top frame pieces so the long edge is flush with the outside of the legs. The exposed 45° side will extend into the center of the table about a 1/2″, but it’s not a problem.


Step 6.

Build the table top by attaching 1 x 4s with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Stagger pocket holes along the back of the tabletop to best hide them.

X Base DIY End Table

For more details on building the tabletop, check out How to Build a Tabletop.


Step 7.

Sand and finish as desired. I found it easiest to sand and finish everything before attaching the tabletop. I used Varathane Weathered Wood Accelerator in Brown and sealed it with Varathane Triple Thick Spray-On Poly, which are both available at Home Depot.

Once the finish is dry, attach the tabletop. I fastened the top to the legs with four small right angle brackets, which lets the wood move with temperature and humidity changes. You can attach the top with screws through the frame, and it’ll work just fine too.

X Base DIY End Table

Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

I’d love to see it if you build from these plans! Tag me on Instagram @bitterrootdiy. I’ve also saved a video of this project on my Instagram profile under highlights!

Hope you have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Bitterroot DIY

Thanks for stopping by!

For more project ideas, you can find me on Pinterest. And to stay up to date with the latest shenanigans, follow me on Instagram.


X Base DIY End Table

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Mike says

    Thanks for the plans, Tylynn. I’m using these to make an nightstand for my son’s bedroom. I’ve done lots of DIY projects, but this is my first time making a piece of furniture. It would be useful to have some more information for novices.

    1.) In steps 3 & 4, if you use the Kreg R3 jig set for 1.5″ thickness material, the pocket holes from opposite ends of the short pieces will run into each other – is this OK? (I shortened the distance and used 1.5″ screws instead of 2.5″ to attach the pieces to the long cross piece. The holes still run into each other but not as much.)

    2.) It would be helpful to see/have explained what kinds of clamps you used. It’s not that easy to get everything square in steps 3 & 4.

    3.) In step 5, because things weren’t square, I was only able to put 2 mitered pieces in opposite each other (the other sides are too far off to get the pieces to fit). This will still work fine, even if it looks a little less polished (I’m putting some leftover butcher block from our kitchen remodel on the top). Again it would be nice to see a picture of how to clamp these pieces in place. I was also wondering if it would make sense to do these pieces first, then attach the bottom pieces, since its harder to get the mitered pieces together and it wouldn’t be as noticeable if the bottom connections are slightly off.

    • Mike says

      One more thing:

      4.) It would be helpful to have a picture of how to do the pocket screws in step 5. With the jig I have you can’t really do two screws without punching through the leg on the outside edge. I ended up just using 1 screw in the middle of the mitered piece, but I’m not sure how much that will reduce the structural integrity.

    • tylynn_sattler says

      Hi Mike, congrats on building your first piece of furniture! Thank you for all the questions – I’m always looking for ways to make things clearer, especially for novices. I added a photo of the bottom of the table for steps 3 & 4 to try to clarify. I’ll try to explain as well:
      1.) I only used 1 screw on each of the bottom pieces. I staggered them slightly so they don’t hit each other. Make sure to use enough wood glue since there’s only 1 screw in each piece.
      2.) I just used standard clamps that expanded wide enough to hold both legs in place. I used a speed square to make sure everything was square before I tightened the clamps down. I did the same thing when I attached the opposing legs.
      3.) The mitered pieces are a little difficult to get in place whether you do them first or second. I built a dining room table in the same style and attached the mitered pieces first on that build – it didn’t work out very well and I ended up re-doing them and having to attach the bottom pieces first. So, for these tables, I attached the bottom leg pieces first from the start. The bottom pieces helped hold the legs in place while I attached the top mitered ones. Without the bottom pieces, the mitered ones slide around too much. HOWEVER, a lot of building furniture is just figuring out what works best for you. Just because that method worked for me doesn’t mean its the best way to do it. On clamping – I used the good ol’ hand & foot clamps for those top miter pieces. It takes some finagling, but I just muscled them into place and held on while I drove the screws … I realize that’s not super helpful, but that’s how I did it.
      4.) I only used 1 screw for the top pieces as well and haven’t had any structural issues with the tables. Just make sure to use enough wood glue. I’ll write that into the post.

      Sorry about the confusion and good luck!

      • Mike says

        Thanks for the responses. I have a picture of the table, but I’m not on Pinterest or Instagram. If you want to see it you can send me an email. I might try making a second table for my other son’s room – if so I’ll focus on getting the legs square, and only use 1 screw.

    • tylynn_sattler says

      Hi there! I just used pine and stained it with Varathane weathered wood accelerator in brown from Home Depot.

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