Build a rustic DIY end table with these free plans.
I can’t believe this is the last set of plans for 2018! I had a goal to finish up these end tables before all the Christmas festivities started – it was a push at the end over here, but they’re in the living room and in use!
This is actually a super quick build. It took me just a few hours (including sanding & staining) to finish a set of two.
Enjoy the free plans!
These plans are written for one table. Adjust as necessary.
Tools & Supplies
- Miter Saw
- Orbital Sander
- Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
- 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
- Wood Glue
- Tape Measure
- Safety Glasses
- Ear Protection
- 1 | 1 x 4 @ 6′
- 2 | 2 x 2 @ 8′
- 4 | 1 x 4 @ 14″ (table top)
- 4 | 2 x 2 @ 23 1/4″ (legs)
- 1 | 2 x 2 @ 12 1/2″ (long x-base)
- 2 | 2 x 2 @ 5 1/2″ (short x-base)
- 4 | 2 x 2 @ 9 7/8″ with 45° perpendicular miter (long side) (top frame)
Position the long x-base 2 x 2 flush with the bottom of the first table leg and attach with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Place pocket hole screws on the bottom of the 2 x 2 to best hide them.
Attach the long x-base 2 x 2 to the opposite leg with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.
Position one of the short x-base 2 x 2s flush with the base of the next table leg and attach with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. Again, place pocket holes on the bottom of the 2 x 2 to best hide them.
Repeat for the last table leg.
Attach the table legs with short x-base 2 x 2s to the table legs with the long x-base 2 x 2. Attach the short x-bases in the center of the long x-base. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws along the bottom of the 2 x 2s.
For clarification, here is a photo of the bottom of the table:
Attach the top frame pieces one-by-one as you work your way around the top of the legs. Use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and wood glue. Place pocket holes along the top of the 2 x 2 frame pieces to best hide them beneath the tabletop. Use one pocket hole in the center of each mitered frame piece.
Since you cut 2 x 2s at a 45° miter, the exposed 45° side will be slightly wider than the legs. Position the top frame pieces so the long edge is flush with the outside of the legs. The exposed 45° side will extend into the center of the table about a 1/2″, but it’s not a problem.
Build the table top by attaching 1 x 4s with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Stagger pocket holes along the back of the tabletop to best hide them.
For more details on building the tabletop, check out How to Build a Tabletop.
Sand and finish as desired. I found it easiest to sand and finish everything before attaching the tabletop. I used Varathane Weathered Wood Accelerator in Brown and sealed it with Varathane Triple Thick Spray-On Poly, which are both available at Home Depot.
Once the finish is dry, attach the tabletop. I fastened the top to the legs with four small right angle brackets, which lets the wood move with temperature and humidity changes. You can attach the top with screws through the frame, and it’ll work just fine too.
Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
Hope you have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Thanks for stopping by!